Pore and Blackhead Care
Prepared by Pharmacist Berfin Işık. As a pharmacist specializing in pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulation, she follows current scientific literature on sebum and pore management. This content is for informational purposes only and does not substitute medical advice.
Pores and blackheads are among the most common and often mismanaged skin concerns. While "eliminating my pores" is not possible, significantly minimizing their appearance and controlling blackheads is scientifically achievable. In this guide, we examine the causes and proper care of pores and blackheads from a pharmacist's perspective.
Why Do Pores Become More Visible?
Pores are essentially the openings of hair follicles and everyone has them. Scientific literature identifies three main reasons for prominent pores: high sebum (oil) production, decreased elasticity around the pores (due to aging and sun damage), and increased volume of the hair follicle. Additionally, chronic recurring acne, sex hormones, and an incorrect skincare routine can also affect pore size. Identifying the cause is key to choosing the right solution.
What are Blackheads?
Blackheads (open comedones) form when the follicular opening becomes filled with dead cells and sebum, and this content oxidizes upon contact with air, causing it to darken. Thus, the black color is not dirt but oxidized sebum; therefore, harsh scrubbing or squeezing does not resolve blackheads, but rather creates inflammation and pore damage. Whiteheads (closed comedones) are the same blockage in a closed state, without air exposure.
Effective Actives for Skin
| Active | Effect |
|---|---|
| Salicylic Acid (BHA) | With its oil-soluble (lipophilic) structure, it penetrates the follicle; dissolves blackheads and blockages. |
| Niacinamide | Balances sebum production and reduces the appearance of pores. |
| Retinoids | Regulates keratinization, preventing new comedone formation; improves skin texture and pore appearance. |
| AHA (glycolic/lactic) | Removes superficial dead cells, providing smoothness and radiance. |
| PHA (gluconolactone/lactobionic acid) | Shows similar effects to AHA but has a larger molecule; penetrates slower, provides gentle exfoliation for sensitive skin. |
| Enzyme peeling (papain/bromelain) | Breaks down protein bonds of dead cells; an acid-free, gentle exfoliation alternative for those with acid sensitivity. |
Scientific Approach
Reviews on pore treatment emphasize that prominent pores are multifactorial and treatment should be individualized based on the underlying cause. For sebum-related pores, sebum-balancing actives (niacinamide, BHA) are preferred; for pores caused by aging/loss of elasticity, topical retinoids and collagen-supporting approaches are prominent. Topical retinoids, chemical peels, and certain device/laser applications are the main options that improve pore appearance. We discussed niacinamide in our separate guide and retinoids in our retinol guide.
How to Care for Pores?
An effective pore-blackhead routine consists of: gentle (sulfate-free) cleansing, BHA a few times a week, daily niacinamide, and nighttime retinoid (according to tolerance), along with light, water-based hydration. Broad-spectrum SPF during the day is critical, as sun damage can reduce elasticity around the pores, making them appear larger. What to avoid: squeezing blackheads, harsh physical scrubs, and excessively oily products. We discussed oily skin management in detail in our article on oily skin.
Weekly Peeling Support: Chemical and Enzymatic Exfoliation
Weekly exfoliation, added on top of daily care, is one of the most effective steps in managing pores and blackheads. There are four main approaches:
- AHA (glycolic/lactic acid): Water-soluble; loosens surface dead cells, providing smoothness and radiance. We discussed glycolic acid in our separate guide.
- BHA (salicylic acid): Oil-soluble; penetrates the follicle and directly dissolves sebum plugs and blackheads. It is the gold standard for pore-blackhead issues.
- PHA: AHA's larger-moleculed, gentler relative; preferred for sensitive and easily irritated skin. You can find the difference between them in our AHA-BHA-PHA guide.
- Enzyme peels (papain, bromelain): Instead of acids, they use proteolytic enzymes to break down protein bonds of dead cells. They are an acid-free, gentle alternative for those with acid sensitivity or fatigued skin barriers.
Frequency is critical: for most skin types, 1-2 times a week exfoliation is sufficient. Daily peeling can damage the barrier, paradoxically increase sebum production, and make pores appear more prominent. On days you use chemical peels, avoid applying retinoids on the same night and be sure to use SPF the next day. For a stronger renewal, dermabrasion-type combined peels and enzymatic conversion gels can be added to the weekly routine with expert recommendation.
To What Extent Can Genetically Large Pores Be Tightened?
One of the strongest determinants of pore size is genetics: the number of sebaceous glands, their activity, and follicle structure are largely hereditary. Therefore, it is not possible to permanently "eliminate" pores or entirely reduce their inherent size in skin with genetically large pores. However, it is important to set realistic expectations: topical care significantly improves the appearance of pores, not their actual diameter. Actives that balance sebum (niacinamide, BHA), regulate keratinization (retinoids), and support collagen strengthen the tissue surrounding the pore, optically shrinking it. A structural, measurable reduction can only be achieved, and to a limited extent, with clinical procedures such as fractional laser or microneedling. In short, genetically large pores can be managed but not "reset"; the goal is to achieve and maintain the best visible result with regular care.
Recommended Products
Frequently Asked Questions
Can pores be permanently closed?
No. Pores are anatomical structures; they cannot be completely eliminated or "closed." However, their appearance can be significantly minimized by balancing sebum, clearing blockages, and supporting elasticity.
I have genetically large pores; can't they be completely reduced?
Genetically large pores cannot be permanently "reset" because sebaceous gland density and follicle structure are largely hereditary. However, their appearance can be significantly improved with regular sebum balancing, exfoliation, and retinoid support. Structural narrowing can be achieved to a limited extent with clinical procedures like fractional laser or microneedling.
I have acid sensitivity; can I still exfoliate?
Yes. If you experience burning or redness with acid-based peels (AHA/BHA), enzyme peels (papain/bromelain) offer an acid-free and gentler alternative. Still, it's important not to exceed 1-2 times a week and to moisturize afterward.
Is squeezing blackheads harmful?
Yes. Squeezing can lead to inflammation, scarring, and damage to the area around the pore, making the pore even more prominent. The correct way to resolve blackheads is through regular care with actives like BHA and retinoids.
Do pore strips work?
Pore strips only mechanically remove the tip of the surface plug; they do not address the root cause, so blackheads quickly reappear, and frequent use can cause irritation. For lasting results, active-based care is necessary.
I have dry skin but also blackheads; is this normal?
Yes. Blackheads are not exclusive to oily skin; they can appear on any skin type, especially on the nose and T-zone. In such cases, gentle exfoliation and barrier-friendly moisturizing should be done together.
Conclusion
Pore and blackhead care is based on "management" rather than "elimination": correctly identifying the cause, regularly using actives that balance sebum and clear blockages (BHA, niacinamide, retinoids), maintaining exfoliation with weekly peeling support, and supporting elasticity with sun protection. For a pore care plan suitable for your skin, you can get support from Medicblu experts.
References
- Lee SJ, Seok J, Jeong SY, et al. Facial Pores: Definition, Causes, and Treatment Options. Dermatol Surg. 2016;42(3):277-285. PMID: 26918966 · DOI: 10.1097/DSS.0000000000000657
- Dong J, Lanoue J, Goldenberg G. Enlarged facial pores: an update on treatments. Cutis. 2016;98(1):33-36. PMID: 27529707
